UNDERSTANDING YOUR MEASUREMENTS
If you’ve ever tried on vintage clothing, you know the sizing of yesteryears is very different to today’s modern sizing.
There are three different reasons for this that apply to both men and women.
First, vintage women’s sizes were based on actual measurements while today’s sizes are called “vanity sizing” because the number on the tag is typically smaller than the actual measurements.
Second, in both men’s and women’s, vintage denim was often non-Sanforized or “shrink-to-fit” meaning you had to size up (typically 2 sizes) to compensate for the amount of shrinkage that happened after the first wash.
Even Sanforized (pre-shrunk)denim, typically seen in the 1980’s & 1990’s, shrunk 8-10% after the first wash (about a half to full size).
For example, a typical pair of 1950’s-1990’s Levi’s 501’s tagged as a 30” waist, today actually measure a 32”.
Lastly, vintage denim is almost always 100% rigid cotton which means there’s not much stretch or give to the fabric.
Whereas today, most modern jeans have some elastic or stretch woven into the fabric which means they have more give in the sizing.
Today’s standard Levi’s range from 98% cotton and 2% elastic (some styles are still 100% cotton).
Today’s Mother Brand & Paige Jeans can have up to 25% elastic in them which gives even more stretch.
So NOT looking at the tagged size, because who cares what the size says when they fit perfectly, and looking at both your measurements, and the measurements of the vintage jeans, is very important!
With that, there are four measurements you should know about yourself before buying vintage denim.
1. WAIST: there are two components to this, your “true waist” - measured around the smallest part of your waist - and the measurements of your waist where you want the top of your jeans to sit.
For example, my true waist is 27” but where I like my jeans to sit is 28-29”
For a super high rise, measure your true waist, the smallest part, at or above your belly button.
For a standard high-rise, measure an inch or so below the bellow button.
For a mid-rise, go 2” below your bellow button.
For Low Rise, measure closer to your hip bones.
2. RISE: this is very important and goes along with the waist measurement; this determines if the waist of the jeans will sit right where you want them. Measure from the middle of your crotch, or from the crotch seam on your favorite pair of jeans, up to the top of the front waistband, or up to where you want the waist of the jeans to sit.
Typically in vintage denim:
Super High Rise: 12”-14” (50’s/60’s/70’s)
Standard High Rise: 10.5”-11.75” (60’s/70’s)
Mid-Rise: 10.25-10.5” (80’s & 90’s & Modern)
*(Today’s Levi’s “High Rise” is typically 10.5”)
Low Rise: 8.5”-10” (Y2K era)
3. HIPS: this should be measured around the widest part of your hips/bum area.
4. INSEAM: measured from the crotch seam to where you want the pants to hit on your ankle, foot, or floor.
Other measurements that can help with the Jeans Style that is right for you are:
Thigh - some styles have more room in the seat and thigh area for those worried about the fit in that area.
Knee & Leg Opening - this helps determine the shape of the jeans that fit you best;
•tapered leg, slim straight, straight, wide leg,
boot cut, bell bottom or flare.
The great thing about denim is it can always be altered! If you find the perfect jean but need the waist taken in, or hem taken up, those are easy fixes.
DENIM RISE - UNDERSTANDING JEANS RISE FOR YOUR BODY
HERE ARE THE STEPS TO FINDING YOUR RISE
First, knowing your waist measurement (both true waist & where you’d like your jeans to sit around your waist …
Step 1: Measure from your crotch to your natural waist (your most narrow part of your waist) and write that number down.
Step 2: Then measure two of your favorite jeans (or the jeans you wear most often, from crotch to top to the jean. Write both of those numbers down.
Step 3: YOUR RISE = the range between your measurement in step 1 and the average between the two numbers in step two.
For example, my rise range is between 10.75-12” but on my everyday favorite pair the rise is 11”
Why your waist & rise range are important?
Using my measurements as an example - I like an 10.75 -11” rise which sits at my 28” waist measurement.
This means is a pair of jeans is listed online at:
28” Waist • 10.75-11” Rise - perfect fit
28” Waist • 10.5” Rise - a little lower than I like & a little tight around the waist
28” Waist • 10” or lower Rise - too low for my comfortable rise range & would be too small (I would need a 29” waist with this rise)
28” Waist • 11.5” Rise - a little room like a boyfriend
28” Waist • 12” Rise - baggy fit or too big (I would need a 27” with this Rise)
*This becomes a matter of preference and comfort once you get to know your rise better. Does something feel too high? Measure the rise! It’s probably above your rise range. Something too low? It’s probably below your rise range. Get it?